Our fencing evolved from the existing buck and rail we were using when our first pack llamas came to live with us 18 years ago and then the smooth wire fence we put up for cross fencing, later when we expanded the perimeter we thought field fence with a top rail would add a little security from the neighborhood dogs.

Our boys never challenged any of these choices, of course why would they, free choice hay, more than adequate pasture, good shelter and frequent pack trips to satisfy their lust for adventure. Our geldings were living the good life. Then our bubble was burst, watching the vet staple close a split lip inflicted by a dog inside our pasture we realize our fences and Powder River gates needed to be redesigned. Field fence was rejected as by now a few stories had surfaced of llamas trapped by getting a leg through the mesh. About this time a visit to Hinterland exposed us to 60" no climb with a top rail. This was the fence we wanted. The only draw back, it seemed to difficult for a "do it yourselfer" so we called the contractor.

Six years ago we moved to Boulder Wyoming and needed to start fencing again. This time we were ready to try it ourselves. Now, 35,000 + feet and hundreds of gates later it has become much easier and we have learned a few tricks and methods we would like to share with fellow llama owners or anyone interested, as it is commonly called Horse Fence.

We never had any problem with the 60" wire but on a big snow year there really wasn't much fence left beside now we have big athletic studs that would enjoy the opportunity to "go visiting". The 72" wire seemed to be a wiser choice. The extra expense is really quite minimal, required 10' posts are often near the same price as the 8' posts needed for the 60' wire and the wire itself is about 20% more. Labor wise the posts have to be set a little deeper and a little straighter, the extra height amplifies any deviation from plumb. Add one extra staple on the wire and everything else is the same. The extra security is well worth it.

The planning should involve a mock lay out stacking corners and gates. If this is to be perimeter fence the bottom wire needs to be on the ground. Any dips or humps should be considered for minor grading to give the top rail a more pleasing contour. Is there any vegetation that needs to be removed? Are you going to cross any ditches or streams? These are great places for dogs or predators to enter, so they should be addressed now with culverts, bottom rails, grates, etc.. The wire needs to be stretched over the outside of any curves or corners, avoid inside corners as much as possible because this means terminating a stretch and restarting the wire. When you are satisfied with the rough layout, measure and figure the amount of material required. Posts should be set about 10' on centers but be careful to have your top rails in hand and measure them before you set the posts. 10' rails can come 1 or 2 inches short or 3 or 4 inches long, it would be a disaster to have all the posts set and the rails arrive to short.

Post size should be; 5 to 6 inches in diameter with top rails 4 to5 inches in diameter. The no climb wire is a 2x4 mesh tied, not welded, Red Brand fence or equivalent

The next step is to finalize the lay out and set the first post. If the last post in that line needs to be exact e.g. a property corner, set that one also. If you have a few inches of leeway just place a stake in its approximate position (this stake needs to mark the wire side of the post, not the center). Drive another stake 8 to 10 feet behind for the anchor of the string line. If this run is longer than about 300 feet or has too much contour for a line to follow 4 or 5 inches above the ground, intermediate stakes need to be sighted in. When you obtain a straight line between the post and the end stake you will want to place intermediate stakes about every 50 feet to maintain that line. If your fence line has a curve you will still want a string line and will place a stake at every postposition to maintain an outside curve with an attractive sweep. A word on "string line" is appropriate as a standard string line is to light. A nylon cord 1/8 to 3/16 inch is much better of if you can get your hands on 1/16 inch cable on reels used by cattle ranchers for movable electric fence it is great. Putting a tight stretch on this line is easily accomplished by using several bungee cords (one at a time) between the end of the line and the anchor. You will need to have plenty of bungee, or tarp straps (the common name) on hand to stretch the wire.

You now have the choice of marking all post centers at once or marking each post center as you go. Either way cut a stick or PVC pipe to the length you are going to use between the centers of the posts. The holes are best marked by using a pointed bar to poke a hole several inches deep and egging out the top by rotating the bar in ever widening circles. This serves as a pilot hole for the tip of the auger. If you lay them all out at once a splash of paint on each makes them more visible. Note: if they are all laid out at once is is advisable to allow a little more safety margin between the length of the top rails center distance of the posts, e.g. for 10' rails use 9' 10" centers. The reason is if you set one post a little short, the next span will not be too long for your top rails. If you are measuring as you go, stop about 100 feet from the end and measure the remaining distance, divide this up to evenly space the remaining posts and not end up with the last space drastically different. The type of soil has bearing on how deep the posts should be set, but with 6' out there should be about 36" in the ground. If you are using 10' posts a little deeper won't hurt, no use wasting the extra. The string line is set on the side of the posts that the wire goes on, so you want to set the post right against it and plumb that side.

When all the posts are in the ground, it is time to mark the trim height. If this is a perimeter fence with the bottom wire on the ground, the average trim height should be 71 inches. If it is an interior fence, with the wire 2 to 4 inches off the ground there is more leeway and the contour of the top rail carries more weight. We will deal with the perimeter fence first. When viewed from the side, the most noticeable aspect of a fence is the top edge of the top rail: you don't really notice where the wire hits the top rail. We can use this to our advantage and give a more pleasing look without a lot of sharp ups and downs in the contour of the top rail. A 4 inch rail allows for about 3 inches of leeway in trim height. Cut a measuring stick 6 foot 2 inches with a mark at 71 inches, then mark all the posts at 71 inches. String your line on that mark by tacking a staple set almost horizontal (this keeps the string right on the mark) at each post. Stretch the string line tight and it will give you a preview of your top line. By adjusting the staples up and down, smooth out the top line, then take your measuring stick and check all along the line, not just at the post because installing the post often leaves a bulge or depression. For a perimeter you are checking to be sure when the bottom wire is on the ground, the top wire can be stippled to rail. It is still not to late to consider a little grading to get the top line where you want it. When the line is adjusted, place another mark on each post for the trim height. A horizontal line with a slash below it works well.

When trimming take extra care to make the cut level and flat. O.K. here comes the disclaimer: be sure to wear a hard hat with full face shield and a chain saw you can easily handle with an anti kick back chain and use ALL manufactures suggested safety measures and be sure your footing is stable. I find the easiest way to make this cut is to sight the bar against the horizon. Make your own judgment if you can do this in absolute safety.

Llama Fence Made Easy - Continued - Part II